The ancient pueblos try to stay true to the ways of their ancestors, but sometimes with a contemporary twist. After all, times do change.

This year, on Christmas Eve, Acoma Pueblo decorated around the ground level of its new Sky City Cultural Center with luminarias. The little bags containing lighted candles lined the path from the Cultural Center to the top of the mesa, and also in the opposite direction along the winding road and to the top of the opposite mesa with its scenic overlook.

The night was relaxing and beautiful as drivers meandered up the hill, following the lights to the scenic view. At the top, one could look back down the road and follow the path of luminaries and headlights leading in both directions.

The seasonal tradition of luminaries is popular all over New Mexico and Arizona. It originated not with the Pueblo people, but with the Spanish, who originally built small bonfires called farolitos to guide people to Christmas mass.

Acoma tribal members, appreciative of the special mass performed just for them, followed the path to the top of the mesa setting across from the scenic overview. At San Esteban Mission, on Sky City mesa, many tribal members attended the annual midnight mass.

Non-tribal members were not allowed access to the midnight mass at San Esteban this year. According to Connie Garcia, Manager of the Sky City Cultural Center, it was the governor's decision that unless one knew a tribal member who had a home up top and who would come down to provide escort, non-tribal members would not be able to join the mass this year.

But, there were all the decorations along the small village roads along old Route 66 for consolation. And in all the small villages there were Christmas Eve masses in their own little churches and missions.

Back on the Laguna Pueblo reservation at Casa Blanca, the small village between the railroad tracks past the Dancing Eagle at I-40 and the village of Paraje, the short windy road was lined with luminarias.

In the main village, Old Laguna, the front of the Saint Joseph Mission was outlined with holiday lights.

Through Dec. 27, everyone was invited to enjoy the magical, traditional dances held in San Esteban on Sky City Mesa.

The mission that looks so enormous from the outside has only a few chairs for tribal officials. The rest who attend the spectacle must stand, but no one really minds, the sight is so impressive.

Dancers arrive from the streets of the private residences. They enter the mission, passing by the counsel members who are keeping the fires burning outside. Passing through the anxious crowd that stands by the doorway, they walk to the center of the adobe floor and begin their dance.

The traditional dances for this season are the Deer Dance, with homemade skirts, belts and moccasins, decorated with sacred feathers and antlers. Dancers may also present the Buffalo dance and sometimes they perform a dance from long ago that is rarely seen.

This very special addition to this season of remembering traditions never fails to inspire and gratify onlookers.